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Revitalizing Breadfruit

Revitalizing Breadfruit

"The Ho'oulu ka 'Ulu Project.“

Ho'oulu ka 'Ulu is a project to revitalize 'ulu (breadfruit) as an attractive, delicious, nutritious, abundant, affordable, and culturally appropriate food which addresses Hawai'i's food security issues. It is well known that Hawai'i imports about 90% of its food, making it one of the most food insecure states in the nation. Additionally, since the economic downturn of 2008, many families lack access to affordable and nutritious food. We believe that breadfruit is a key to solving Hawaii's food security problems.

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Kea'au Natural Foods Store, with owner Wes Fujii

KeaauNaturalFoods-OutdoorposteronlanaiinfrontofstoreCElevitchDisplay window at Kea'au Natural Foods.Tucked into a corner of the Kea'au Shopping Center, right next to Ace Hardware, Kea'au Natural Foods is a small but very clean, bright and extremely well stocked and organized store. It has been in the present location since 1996 and seems to have constant traffic passing through its doors.

The original store was founded in 1983 by Alex Beamer in a small shopping center that used to sit across the street from the present site, where the McDonalds is now located. Present owner, Wes Fujii was working as manager in the original store and bought it about 6 years ago. Wes is a full time hands-on store owner, and his wife Claudine, who recently retired as branch manager of the Hilo Library, helps with the paperwork from home. He tells me he considers himself the "gatekeeper" of the store, using strict standards for personally approving everything that is sold. He knows his customers trust him to sell them only products he feels are safe and that he would feel happy about giving his own children. The two most important guidelines for choosing products to sell have to be quality and safety.

Wes explains that although the store is "sorta low-key" and doesn't do a lot of advertising, it attracts a wide and varied clientele with some coming from quite a distance to shop regularly. A big portion of his customer base tends to be female, and many are seniors since the store offers significant senior discounts.

Besides an assortment of brand-name merchandise, the store has a section where all items carry the store's own label -- on tinctures, essential oils and supplements. Any products which contain hormones or animal products are shelved separately.

KeaauNaturalFoods-WesFujii-over300herbsspicesWes Fujii, owner of Kea'au Natural FoodsThe bulk bins and the herb and spice sections are the largest I have seen in any store on the island, and Wes points out that none of these products are irradiated. A huge selection of raw grains, seeds and flours of all types can be found in the bins, very reasonably priced. The herb and spice section contains over 300 different items from all over the world. Each canister holding herbs and spices is marked with a different color dot: green for rain forest, blue for ayurvedic herbs, yellow for Chinese, and red for bulk teas.

The selection of dried fruit is not large, but here again all are personally selected and approved to not contain sulphur or any other preservatives or food coloring. The coffee sold is all organic 'fair trade' coffee beans and customers can grind their own beans. The store does not sell pre-packaged ground coffee that might contain other fillers. Customers can also grind peanuts to make their own natural peanut butter.

On one wall there is water machine where customers can fill their own containers with ionized water and can select the PH level they prefer.

Although at this time their produce selection is not too large, a large percentage is Hawai'i grown. The store uses different designations to label their produce: Certified Organic Hawai'i; Certified Organic Mainland (or other country); and Homegrown "No Pesticides" Hawai'i. This last designation is for food grown organically, with no pesticides or commercial fertilizers but the farmer does not have an organic certification. Wes does not accept any conventionally grown produce, nor products made from conventionally grown produce.

KeaauNaturalFoods-producebinsandlocallypreparedfoodsProduce bins and locally prepared foods.Wes wants to work toward strengthening the connection between grower/producer and consumer. He is currently working on plans to make local farmers or providers more prominently known to the shoppers who come to his store.

The prepared foods sold are all made in a commercial kitchen by Alan's Foods in Hilo.

Wes believes the GMO issue is important and he defends the consumer's "right to know" what they are actually buying and supports labeling of all GMO products.

The store hosts two functions a year: Customer Appreciation in June and the store's Anniversary in November; both events feature tastings, promotions and other specials.

The Hawai'i HomeGrown Food Network recently asked Wes Fujii about the store's mission, the products he sells, and what needs to happen to increase local food consumption.

HHFN: How would you describe the mission of Kea'au Natural Foods?
WF: Our goal is to provide our customers the tools they need to make informed food and lifestyle choices which will enhance their health and well being.
 
HHFN: Of your total sales, roughly what percentage of value-added food products are made in Hawai'i? How much is fresh produce (imported and local)?
WF: 10% to both questions.
 
HHFN: What percentage of the produce you sell is grown in Hawai'i? On this island?
WF: 75% from Hawai'i Island, 25% mainland. No local produce from off island.
 
HHFN: Of this, what percentage is certified organic? "No Spray"?, Conventional?
WF: 20% certified organic; 80% "No Spray". We do not accept conventionally grown produce.
 
HHFN: How many local vendors do you support?
WF: We support approximately 50 local vendors.

HHFN: What do you see as the biggest obstacle to increasing consumption and production of local food?
WF: The widespread belief that locally grown in-season food is not worth paying more money for, and the lack of understanding of the negative impacts on the environment of having so much of our food come from so far away.

HHFN: How can we overcome these obstacles?
WF: Point of sale signs illustrating the true costs of shipping and handling imported produce.

HHFN: What do you think state government should do to make Hawai'i more food self-sufficient?
WF: From the supply side: government price supports. From the demand side: consumer tax breaks and rebates.

HHFN: If we could give you a soapbox, what would you say to the residents of Hawai'i Island about food issues?
WF: Support local food production every time you open your wallet. These "little votes" will ultimately determine the quality and locality of the food that is offered for sale.

Sonia R. Martinez, the Hawai'i Homegrown Food Network regular farmers market reporter, is a cookbook author and freelance food writer for several publications in Hawai'i, including The Hamakua Times of Honoka'a. She is a contributing writer for Edible Hawaiian Islands Magazine and has her own food & garden blog at http://soniatasteshawaii.com 

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