Island Naturals Market & Deli

One of Island Naturals' many displays in support of locally grown produce and products.

—and interview with owner Russell Ruderman

With four organic food store locations around the island, Island Naturals owner Russell Ruderman says the stores support more local farmers and value-added food providers than any other store, supermarket or farmers market on Hawai’i Island.

Each of the four stores has a unique character and some unique products. Each store buys from many local farmers, some of whom do not distribute island-wide. All stores have customers interested in special diets, (Gluten-Free, vegetarian, or dairy-free) to which the stores try to cater. In all stores, the Deli and in-store prepared foods are very popular. Each store also reflects the customer base in its particular area.

The first store was opened in Hilo in 1998. A large segment of customers in this store are “born & raised” on the Big Island, including many who work and live in Hilo. The Hilo store is particularly popular with Japanese customers, both residents and tourists of Japanese ancestry.

In the Pahoa store you’ll find more counter-culture and back-to-the-land folks -- thus bulk foods and produce are especially popular there. Kona sees an eclectic customer base which includes lots of mainland transplants and a modest percentage of visitors. The clientele of the Kainaliu store is mostly composed of South Kona residents, many of whom have jobs in Kailua-Kona and commute through Kainaliu, stopping on their way to or from work.

Some of the locally grown fruits on display at Island Natural's Hilo store.

Each of the four stores purchases from well over 100 individual local vendors and prides itself on being the primary outlet for dozens of local farmers and food producers, while representing them with integrity and enjoying an ongoing trusting relationship.

As you walk around the stores, you notice the emphasis placed on locally sourced products by the many “Locally Made” signs and prime locations in the store. Local products, whether produce, value-added or manufactured are given better shelf placement for higher visibility. Pricing of local products is often a bit lower than other competing products to encourage sales, and special promotions and demonstrations are offered -- including the popular First Friday “Local Food Demo Day” when only local products are featured in tasting demos and sales in each store.

Local products are featured in both the regular department for the generic product and also in various “Local Food” sections scattered around the store. The “Local” sections are of help not only to the residents who want to support the local farmers and businesses but also to the visitors who want to find local products for gifts and souvenirs.

All the breads sold are baked in their store, and 100% of the items in one of the large refrigerated cases in the Hilo location are made in their own kitchen.

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The Hawai’i HomeGrown Food Network recently sat down with owner Ruderman to get his take on Island Natural’s role in the future of sustainably grown food on our island.

HHFN: Russell, can you tell us what your goal is at Island Naturals?

RR: “The mission of our business is to provide healthy food to the community in an ethical, sustainable manner”; we strive to be a welcoming place for everyone, while maintaining an enjoyable work environment for our staff.”

HHFN: Do you see any trends in the consumption of local produce and the consumption of local organic and “no spray” produce?

Local value-added product display.

RR: Interest in “Local” produce is higher than ever before. “Local” is a trend and a buzzword in the food industry, and we welcome this increased awareness for both environmental and economic reasons. Lately there’s a debate on “Local” vs. Organic. Our ideal is both; local & organic. If we have to choose, we usually choose organic, or offer both as a choice to consumers. The benefits of organic farming to our health, the environment, and the sustainability of our food system are so crucial it’s hard to support conventional farming when organic is available.

As an example… let’s say your next door neighbor is growing food, using the full chemical arsenal of conventional farming. This produce is as local as can be, yet the air & water around your home are damaged by the chemical use, and the produce itself can be less nutritious and possibly downright poisonous. So for us, local does not always trump organic. Ideally we want both local & organic.

HHFN: So, what percent of the produce that you sell is grown locally?

RR: On the produce stand, over 50% is “Hawai’i-grown.” Of this, almost all, 95 plus percent, is Big Island produce.

HHFN: What percent of your value-added products are Hawai’i-made?

RR: It varies from 10% to 20% depending on the department.

HHFN: What percentage of your produce is Certified Organic? “No-spray?” Conventional?

RR: Over 80% of our produce is Certified Organic. Another 10% is “No-spray” or “claimed organic;” and less than 10% is “conventional.”

HHFN: Okay, then what percentage of your Certified Organic produce is imported from the mainland?

RR: About 50%.

HHFN: What do you see as the biggest obstacles to increasing consumption and production of local food? Is it mainly supply, or demand?

RR: Consistency of supply is a factor, but the biggest factor is consumer demand and the willingness to sometimes pay more for local food.

HHFN: How can we best overcome this obstacle?

RR: Increase awareness of the benefits of local production, and generate an understanding that it is better to support your neighbors than distant factories & shipping companies

HHFN: What do you think of the College of Tropical Ag & Human Resources (CTAHR)’s role in Hawaiian agriculture?

RR: I need to know more of what CTAHR does. In that they support small farmers and help address the challenges, I greatly welcome this.

HHFN: What do you think state government should do to make Hawai‘i more food self-sufficient?

RR: Develop & fund awareness campaigns, support local producers with business support, such as business incubators and business development programs. Enact tax incentives for local production.

HHFN: If we could give you a soapbox, what would you say to the residents of Hawai‘i Island about food issues?

RR:

Refrigerated case of products made at the Hilo store.

We must support our friends and neighbors who are producing food. Even when, occasionally, this may mean a slightly higher price, it is well worth it. We will not be able to depend on imports, due to the ever rising cost of shipping and its carbon footprint which contributes to global warming. For Hawaii to be self- sufficient, we must develop our local agriculture and value-added food production. This can only happen when we actively support local producers so they can thrive and grow. We need to recognize local farmers as our heroes, and value them highly and appreciate them. Tangibly support your local food producers by purchasing & vocally demanding local food in our markets and restaurants.

HHFN: How does your mission relate to food security issues in Hawai‘i?

RR: A sustainable food system requires local food production, to reduce the carbon footprint from shipping, provide fresher food, and to support the local economy. Sourcing locally also allows us to have lower prices, as shipping costs are reduced, and faster response times to keep products in stock without the lead times of importing.

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Learn about Island Naturals Market and Deli at http://www.islandnaturals.com/